TUTORIALS - 7

BUILDING RESIN
SHIP MODELS

by Charles J. Parker

The art of model ship building has been around just about as long as man. Resin is a new and exciting product for the ship modeler, that allows commercial manufacturers to produce highly detailed model kits for the modeler to build. All the aspects and skills required to build resin ship models would be a good subject for a doctoral thesis, and a life time of work. What this article is designed for is to give you a very quick overview of the art of "Building Resin Ship Models".

What is a resin ship model? A resin ship model is a detailed scale model of a ship, largely composed of resin with white metal or brass, photo etched brass parts and instructions or plans of the ship or model. Some resin models will have wood, paper, other types of metal parts, glass or plastic parts and reference materials included in the model kit.

Who should build resin ship models? Today resin ship models range from relatively inexpensive simple kits children can assemble, to museum quality detailed scale models difficult for the best model maker to build and costing in the thousands of dollars. Some are all inclusive in the box and some require the skills and tools of a master craftsman to build. Generally, resin ship models are for the experienced modeler who wants to take the time and invest the effort and money associated with producing a detailed displayable model. Then he should invest in the additional cost necessary to present the model in a high quality display case.

The first thing you need to understand when deciding to build a resin ship model are the materials involved.

CHARACTERISTICS OF RESIN

Resin is a polymer compound composed of two parts: a base and an accelerator. When combined these part cause a chemical reaction and the resulting product is a solid with similar characteristics of both plastic and wood. Resin can be worked with power tools, sanded like wood, and carved with a high speed bit, without melting like plastic. It can be cut, filed or sawed like wood. It can be heated, bent, stretched, and shaped like plastic. Resin will also burn like plastic when exposed to open flames, or discolor and melt if exposed to high temperatures. RESIN IS FLAMMABLE. Resin "stinks"; it smells bad and when worked will release gaseous "odors". Resin dust produced when cutting or sanding resin is harmful and a breathing mask should be worn. When pouring resin and working with resin in it's liquid forms it should be treated as any potentially hazardous chemical and protection should be taken to reduce exposure to the skin, eyes, or breathing the fumes. RESIN IS A DANGEROUS CHEMICAL COMPOUND AND SHOULD BE TREATED AS SUCH. If treated with care and caution resin is safe for modeling. Additionally, there are many different types of resin each having their own peculiarities. Some of these peculiarities are: what glues will hold them, what will hold dissimilar parts to them, what types of paints will bond to them, and what chemicals will affect them, and at what temperatures they will become flexible, melt or burn. When working with resin you will have to experiment and find out many of these characteristics yourself. Some problems with resin include warping, the presence of air bubbles, and sometimes it does not fully cure (set up and harden).

CHARACTERISTICS OF WHITE METALS

White Metals is a common term used to describe metal compounds of tin, lead, pewter or the like, used in modeling or sculpting. They are generally soft metals that can be sanded, bent, cut and carved by hand or with hand held power tools. Some can also be soldered with a soldering iron but will usually melt if a torch is used. Most contain some percentage of lead and thus have to be treated as a Hazardous Material. Because of this normal safety precautions should be taken. Like resin there are many forms of white metal and you will have to experiment to learn what the exact characteristics of the one you are working with will be. One feature of some white metals is that they oxidize similar to rusting and will lose their texture and strength and actually disintegrate.

CHARACTERISTICS OF BRASS

Brass in ship models is usually used to produce small parts, either cast or what is referred to as photo etched. Brass is a semi-hard metal. Thin sheets, or rods, of brass can be cut or sawed with a knife, scissors, or snipper, and bent or shaped, generally around a frame. Brass can be sanded, bent and soldered or welded with a small torch. Many glues will also work with brass to allow it to be attached to parts made of other materials.

Other materials found in resin ship models or that are useful in the construction of resin ships:

Wood: Many kits will contain wooden parts. Some resin kits will have wooden bases included with the model or wooden parts, generally dowels, or stripping for decks. Wood is also useful to make replacement parts or frames or other components that you need for the construction of resin models.

Plastic: Many resin kits will also contain plastic parts. These parts may be components of the kit or the resin kit may require the purchase of a plastic kit to build the desired model. Also, plastic parts can be used from other plastic models to add detail or change the original resin model.

Metal: Some kits will contain steel, copper, or other metals for components. Most metal parts can be treated like they are brass for gluing and painting. Aluminum and other soft metals can be used to make replacement or more detailed parts that require turning or milling. Metal parts can also be used to reinforce resin or white metal parts that are under stress or pressure. Metal wire, rod, tubing and chain can be used for rigging, nets, lines, antenna, mast, rails and many other parts, and to correct or add detail to the model.

Paper: Some kits will contain parts made of paper. These parts will usually be cut out and glued or laminated to the model like decals or used as patterns to cut and prepare other parts. A good way to think about paper is, before plastics, ship modelers used paper to make many of the parts that we use plastic for today.

Finally, and most importantly, the components of time and commitment: Resin kits are time consuming products that require a commitment to build. I am sure there are many more resin kits that are sitting on the shelf or half built than have ever been completed. Resin kits generally take considerably more time than similar plastic kits. They are in the same category as wooden ship kits (sticks and string). They require more skill and talent to assemble and finish, they are complex and present problems which require you to figure out and experiment with solving and they generally are expensive.

Things you should consider when selecting a ship model

If you live in a 1 bedroom apartment, stick to small scales of 1/450 and below and small ships. If you have lots of room, try a 1/350th or larger kit. Remember the difference is at 1/450th and below we are talking inches and 1/350th and above we are talking feet! You also need to take a look at the skills that will be required to build the model ( you need to understand your modeling skill). If you have not done some scratch building or conversions and you are not comfortable with building complex models that present you with difficult problems you may want to select a simple kit. If you have done scratch building or are an experienced modeler, you may want to start with a more complex subject. Remember though try to look at it the model before you buy it, especially if it is your first resin model and/or you are not familiar with the manufacturer. Also try to talk to someone who has built it or try to find a good review of the model. You will also want to consider what will be needed to build the model and what type of research information is available on the model you select. It is very frustrating to buy an expensive model and not be able to find good research information about the model that you will need to make an accurate representation. Normally, most plans for resin models are lacking and additional research information will be needed to build the model.

How to select the model

Start with a kit that contains all the components but is not to complex or expensive. Try a destroyer or submarine in 1/350 scale. It is large enough to give you a feel for what a resin ship model can be, plus the experience of working with all the components. Choose a kit by one of the major resin manufactures that has a good reputation for quality. If the first kit you select is a poor quality kit it will turn you off to resin models! Select a kit with good instructions , clean castings, and that there is information available about.

Undoubtedly you will most likely need some new tools! Here are some of the tools you will need for a resin kit, including some you can buy some you will need to make.

(a.) X-acto knifes #11 blades lots of them!
(b.) Chisel point blades in several sizes.
(c.) Saw blade and a large size razor saw.
(d.) Single edge razor blades
(e.) Glass or metal cutting block
(f.) Several good shears, scissors

(a.) Needle files
(b.) 100,400,600,1200 grit wet and dry sand paper
(c.) Assorted sanding blocks (home made) (see DRAWING 1.).

(a.) Several assorted shapes of tweezers
(b.) A good small nipper
(c.) Needle nose, flat blade and round blade pliers
(d.) A pair or regular pliers.

(a.) Assorted small and large size clamps (metal screw)
(b.) Masking tape, scotch tape to hold parts together.
(c.) Low tack painting tape
(d.) A small vise is also very helpful

E. Rulers, dividers:

(a.) Murphy rules for ship scales. You can make hand made ones.
(b.) Metal rulers. Curves, squares and circles
(c.) Drafting tool dividers, compass

(a.) Small hand held drill adjustable/changeable chocks
(b.) Assorted drill bits ( buy good ones--they are cheaper in the long run.)

(a.) White glue
(b.) Super glue, several viscosities and accelerator
(c.) Auto body putty, green stuff, milliput, Evercoat Glaze coat #417

(a.) Good quality model paint (your preference) but remember to get a good primer you may have to use it with some resins.
(b.) Acetone, lacquer thinner, Dio-Sol solvent, methyl ethyl Ketone, denatured alcohol, decal set.

I. Paint Brushes:

(a.) A good selection of high quality brushes
(b.) A good airbrush and compressor. Don't be cheap here; if you shell out the money for a good heavy duty compressor ($100-200), it will last a lifetime.

J. Power tools:

(a.) Dremel drill ( an essential modeling tool) with assorted tools, drills, grinder and polishers.
(b.) Small or large disk and belt sander
(c.) Small or large drill press
(d.) Band saw

Here are some good ideas to start with. I know real men don't need instructions, but open the box and read the instructions. If there is a parts list, check the list and make sure everything is included. If there is no parts list, go through the assembly sequence to determine if the whole kit is there. If something is missing don't start the kit until you have contacted the manufacturer to get the missing parts or damaged parts. Some manufacturers are easy to deal with others are not!!! Look at the steps recommended in assembling the kit and divide the kit up to follow those steps. Small divided plastic boxes are great for seperating parts and keeping them safe. Also, think about what you want the finished kit to look like and think ahead to include new steps in the assembly sequence. (How to rig the kit, for example, may not be covered in the assembly steps of the instruction. Because of this you may need to plan to bore holes or adjust or add scratch built fitting to rig the kit the way you want it to be.) You will also need to mount your hull to work on it, some people won't do this but it will make construction much easier and you are less likely to damage work you have done if your hull is on a solid base (see drawing 2.)

Some general things about building resin

How to fix warped and bent parts: Heat affects resin. Resin parts can be heated and will become soft and pliable so they can be bent and shaped. The size of the part determines the amount of heat required. Small hulls, 10 inches and less, can be heated in a oven for 2 -5 minutes at 350-400 degrees F and will become very flexible. Larger pieces take longer 5-10 minutes. They will discolor (no problem) and/or burn (problem). It is also better to use a electric oven versus gas. (DO NOT USE A MICROWAVE SOME RESINS ARE METAL BASED) Also, remember you will need gloves to handle hot parts. To straighten hulls you need to heat them on a flat surface and build a mold to hold them in the shape you want them to cool in. They will significantly expand when heated and you must take this into consideration when building a mold.. Another method to fix bent or warped hulls is the cut and fill method. You may have to cut a hull into several parts to fix bends and warps and you may also have to use screws to hold the hull when joining it to the upper part of the ship. Hulls can also be split to fix fit problems in berth. Some small parts can be fixed in a similar manner. As an example, a bent gun tub can be heated and then bent back into the proper shape. Thin pieces of resin such as gun tubs or shielding that have broken off can be reattached with super glue. Parts such as masts, gun tubes and the like generally are not easy to fix by the heating and bending method and usually require rebuilding in another medium (brass, wood, or plastic).

The following are some basic rules to follow on gluing. Remember you are working with a model made of several very dissimilar materials, they expand and contract at different rates and this will affect the types of glues you want to use.

1. Hulls need to be glued with super glues (ACC), or epoxies. Screws and pins can also be used to set and strengthen hull joints and ensure alignment.

2. Resin to resin parts are best glued with super glues or epoxy. Depending on the time needed to fit the part, different viscosity super glues can be used or epoxy. To increase the speed of the setting you can use an accelerator. Pining parts can be used for fit and strength.

3. Super glue or epoxy should also be used for white metal or brass being attached to resin or other metal parts.

4. Brass to brass parts can be super glued or soldered.

5. Photo etched parts can be attached with super glue, epoxy, or white glue to resin or white metal but super glue seems to works best with other brass parts. Photo etched parts can also be attached with clear gloss paint as a binder.

6. Rigging wire (metal, brass, steel etc.) needs to be attached with super glue, paper with white glue or clear gloss or super glue, monofilament, silk thread, thread with super glue or white glue. Plastic with super glue or white glue.

Resin is like wood, it may require a great deal of sanding and filling to get a good fit and finish. You need to become a master sander to build really great resin models. First take your time and, when doing detail work and finishing, stick to hand sanding. GRINDERS AND POWER SANDERS ARE GREAT FOR REMOVING LARGE AND SMALL POURS, BUT THEY CAN MAKE A MESS OR DESTROY A PART REALLY FAST. Don't be afraid to sand. Practice on an old plastic kit or piece of wood and learn how different grits will cut and polish. Also learn how to get a glass smooth finish by wet sanding. Understand fillers. If you have a large gap, put a plastic or wood block in to fill the gap, carve it down and then finish with a finer filler like body putty or green stuff. Don't try to fill a big hole with just putty. Remember fillers are of different hardness, this is very important. Super glue is very hard if you use it as a filler on resin, plastic or wood. The resin, plastic and wood will sand down around the super glue faster than the super glue and give you a depression or gap. Also, here is where some of those solvents come in. Acetone and methyl ethyl ketone are softeners, cutting solution for body putties and most fillers. It can be used to shorten the drying time and thin putties so they can even be painted on to fill small scratches and gaps. This method is also very good for filling those problem air bubbles and holes or gaps in a poor casting. One other way to fill gaps and holes is with resin or epoxy. A dam can be built up around the problem area and a layer of resin can be applied like a layer of putty, then sanded and finished thereby repairing the problem. Remember that filling is a slow process. Several thin layers are more likely to give you a better finish than trying one thick layer. Also remember that you need to give fillers and paints time to dry before sanding. Trying to sand a wet filler makes a real mess. Sanding follows the same rules as filling: work slow and sand, fill, sand -- don't try to cut too much down at one time. Remember a primer is the last step to filling and finishing and you need to sand it also. To get a really good finish from your paint over a filled or sanded area, the area needs to be a glass smooth finish and that takes time. Patience is the secret to a great finish.

Assembly of the model

Some resin models are notorious for bad instructions and inaccuracies on plans. If you do not have a lot of experience at building models, and in particular ships, do follow the instructions. Additional plans and references are a must if you want to make sure the model is accurate and will also greatly help in assembling the model. Dry fit each part through each step before gluing and if needed do several steps with non-permanent glue to test fits. White glue or rubber cement is good for this or taping with two sided tape will also work. Build the model in components: hull assembly, deck levels, mast and guns. Also you may need to paint as you build as an area may be visible after assembly but you might not be able to get back into it to paint after parts are glued together around it. Photo etched brass is a key component of most resin models as it provides the intricate detail of the smaller parts, such as railings and ladders. Photo etch presents a problem during assembly however because it is fragile and it is difficult to paint around once glued to the model. Whether to glue railings prior to or after painting is a subject of much discussion amongst ship modelers. I prefer to glue, then paint (if possible) as I have some tricks that work well that I will cover under painting. This is not a hard rule though, and sometimes you will need to paint, then glue. If you have to do this you may want to scrape away the paint under the part to be glued for a better bond.

Painting is a ditto to filling, why now?

(Time and patience is the secret.) Why now? Because you will need to paint as you build in many cases. You won't be able to paint inside parts you have assembled, and you will want to paint sub components of the model as you build them. Types of paint: lacquers, thinner/solvent/oil based or acrylics. I'm old school; I like Floquil solvent based paints. I do not like the acrylics as I have had problems with acrylics bonding to resins and metal. Either way, a good final sanding or steel wool polishing of the model and a good primer coat will improve the results of the paint job on a resin model. The type of paint you use is up to you. Also remember thin light coats are better than thick coats ( I always forget this rule) and give paint a chance to dry between coats and handling (this one to!). The process of painting a ship involves several steps and several skills, here are some tips on painting ships. First mount your model on a base as recommended before. The base can be covered with tape to keep it from getting painted or damaged during the painting process.

Selecting colors

There are now a number of excellent lines of marine colors. As far as accuracy of the color, my thought is if it looks right, it's OK. If it looks wrong, but the label says it's right, don't use it, try something else. Having spent my life in the military I'll tell you FS and government contract paint varies widely now, and historically it would be impossible to tell exact shades of base colors or finishes on old vessels or even new ones. Ships are also very big. They are never painted in a day by one person out of one can or drum of paint so there will always be shade and tint variances in color, even of the same color on the same ship. Also weather, light, general maintenance and climate has a great deal to do with how paint lasts, shades and turns over time. Photographs are also often poor sources to determine color, as film varies significantly now and did even greater in the early days of color photography. Film also has the same problems as paint in quality, and exposure over time. All that being said if it looks OK, sort of right, in the ball park and you are happy with it, go with it. Remember everyone's eyes see colors a little differently, but do try to stay close when trying to match a historical record. If the ship had weather deck blue decks and was haze gray, use a dark blue gray for the deck and a light gray for the basic ship. Do not use blue and white, as that is too far out of the ball park. Also, remember that thing called "scale effect". I can't explain it, but I know it and you will too when you see it.

Brush painting versus airbrushing

Ship building requires both skills. You also may be working with several paint mediums on your model (lacquers, solvents, acrylics, oils, or pastels). A large amount of the painting on ship models will need to be done with a brush. Here are some ideas on brush painting. Select a brand of paint that flows well (some paints brush some do not). Thin your paint and use several thin coats for a smooth finish.. Remember to let the paint dry between coats. Here is a short cut on how to separate paint coats where you have to lay dissimilar colors over one another (for example, if you had to paint a yellow line over a gray base). The trick is to use dissimilar paint, a lacquer or enamel base and then an acrylic layer. As an example, let the base coat dry to a degree that it can be touched without leaving a finger print, then paint or spray a coat of Future floor wax over the painted surface. This will lay a barrier between the two paint layers. The Future, which is an acrylic, will dry very hard in about 1 hour and then the second coat can be painted over the first with out having it bleed through. This is also a very good way to lay a wash on over paint without having it bleed through. You can actually use the Future as the medium to carry the wash pigment. Future can also be used between acrylic paint coats. An enamel clear or clear varnish can also be used between acrylic layers and some lacquers and enamels. You will need to experiment to find out what works best for you. Also you need to sand between coats. If you get brush marks or drips, this is the way to remove them. Some other tips on brush painting include using a brush that is large enough to hold enough paint so that it will flow smooth, then touch it up with a smaller brush where needed afterwards, blending it in with a coat of clear from a airbrush as a final touch. Use the right brush for the paint and job: fine sable brushes for lacquers and oils, synthetics for acrylics, broad flat brushes for wide flat areas, thin long bristle brushes for long smooth thin strokes.

Again, you will have to experiment with may factors here. Select a brush you like and can work with. I use a single action Paasche, mainly because it is cheap (inexpensive) all metal (you can throw it in a jar of acetone or lacquer thinner to clean and use a wire brush on it) and you can use one of several points to have some selection in line size. Next, you need to experiment and practice with your airbrush to learn how to use it. This takes time and experience and if you don't use it for awhile you will lose your skill with the air brush. When you are ready to paint with your airbrush, just like with a brush, you need to select a paint that will provide the type of finish and result you want. Again this is your selection as to lacquer, or acrylic. I like floquils as I have said. Read your instructions on your paint and thin as required to get an even smooth spray. You will also need a water trap on you brush (this is a must). Ventilation is also a must especially with Floquils, lacquers and enamels (solvent based paints). Lastly, you need to watch the weather, temperature and humidity, as all will affect airbrushing. I airbrush in my garage and outside and this is very important. To get an even smooth finish airbrushing is most likely the best way to go. Large areas can be painted easily with base colors and finish bases can be applied smoothly with airbrushes letting you smooth in brush painted areas. When airbrushing, masking becomes critical. Selection of masking products is important. It is frustrating to peel up a masked area and have the base paint under it peel up also. Use a quality tape with a low tack (the Tamiya tapes work well and high quality masking tapes by 3M). I avoid scotch tapes and painter's masking tape for detail masking. I also avoid the liquid masking products as I can never get them to work. Block masking is also a skill you will need to learn. This is simply holding a piece of card to block an area as you paint around it. This can be used on decks and vertical surface areas and detail can be later picked out by brush painting and smoothing in with a final coat of base clear. Holding the blocking surface off from the area being painted will also result in a feathery line found in some camouflage patterns, this can be done by hand or attaching a spacer to the blocking surface to give a stand off. Another tip about airbrushing masked areas: if you can hold your air brush over the masked area and paint away from it, this will reduce the build up of paint along the tape and seepage under the tape.

Painting photo etched parts

Everyone seems to have their on way and preferences for painting photo etch. Here are some of the best ways I have found. First, gluing brass to a painted surface forms a weaker bond than gluing to a raw surface. Build photo etch components such as bridges, cranes, masts, and support structures painting those areas that you will have trouble getting back into with a brush as you go. Most of these areas will be small and hard to see, if even visible on the finished model, so basically all that you will need to do is cover them with paint so you will not see raw brass or metal. When doing this try not to paint an area where the glue will be placed to hold the part. Paint large areas around photo etch with an air brush, then go back and paint the over spray on the photo etch with a brush. On most photo etched parts, such as railing and cranes, the areas of photo etch are so small that brush strokes and marks are not a problem, especially if you remember to use tinned paint and several very light coats instead of a heavy coat (give it time to dry between coats). This is the way the process works with rails. Glue the unpainted rail to the unpainted deck. Spray paint the whole area with a primer. You can also fill gaps in the attachment points at this time by running a line of clear gloss paint with a brush along the bottom of the rail, between the railing and deck. Several applications may be required and try not to build up globs of paint. If you do, you can remove them with a #11 X-acto knife or a small piece or 1200 grit sand paper. Additionally, this will strengthen the bond of the photo etch to the deck. Next, spray paint the deck, first working as close to the railing as you can. A little over spray won't hurt. Next mask the deck off or use a block mask and spray the rail; a little over spray won't hurt here either. Now here is the trick for your final finish painting. Take several brushes and bend them about an inch back from the bristles to a 45 angle. All those spots you couldn't get to before you can now reach. Now you can brush paint the areas between the rail and deck cleaning up any mistakes or unpainted areas. Next over spray the whole area with a flat coat and that will aid in blending in the brush painted areas between the two colors and give you a smoother finish. This trick also works great on those joints between deck houses and decks. You can also modify this method and paint the areas between the rail and deck with a brush first. Then, using a block mask, spray the deck and railing and finishing up using the same process as before.

Adding dimension to brass parts

Have you ever painted a photo etched brass sailor? He's the right height and berth but only 2" thick in scale. You can fill him out by painting him with white glue several times before you paint him. You can add dimension to those photo etched gun barrels and flat masts the same way or by using super glue to build up the shape.

Finish Painting and weathering

Ships have historically been finished in two basic methods. First is a presentation display model. This is the method used in many, if not most, of the museum displayed models you have seen. Basically, the ship is painted in the correct color and pattern and no weathering or highlighting of the finished model is done. This results in a very clean, flat, monochromatic finish in which detail is difficult to see. The other method is to do a realistic weathered finish. Generally, full hull display models have been finished in the first method and waterline models have been finished in the latter. Neither way is better than the other as they are simply the way chosen by the modeler to display the work. Also, as model competitions become more prevalent, ways that have previously not been used or not frequently been used for ship modeling are being seen. This includes the use of washes on presentation display models to make the detail stand out, or other methods such as dry brushing and shading on both full hull presentation models and waterline or ship models in dioramas. When finishing your model you need to determine what finish you want and how you want to represent that finish, keeping in mind common sense things. A waterline ship at sea in high sea will not be totally flat in color. It would be covered in water and appear glossy where wet. A diorama type presentation ship would be weathered and not have a perfect finish. It would be rusted and discolored in spots. What ever presentation you decide on should be carried out through out the model.

Building photo etched parts

Patience, patience, patience! They are small and delicate, but you can do it. Cut photo etch with a good set of shears if you can. You can get a sharp neat cut that way. If you can't cut the part with shears, cut it with an X-acto knife or straight edge razor blade on a glass or metal block. Buy blades by the 100 count and don't be cheap with them. Make yourself several small sanding blocks with 400 grit or finer sand paper to work with the photo etch. It will need to have very sharp edges and can be made of wood or plastic. With this block you can sand and clean up you photo etch and repair bent and damaged parts. You will need to sandwich small and thin parts, such as railings, between two blocks to sand the edges without damaging them. Use the right tool (shaped pliers); good tools are essential and make templates to bend photo etched parts around (see DRAWING 3.) You will use the same skills doing photo etched parts as building mast and spars. Never throw anything away; it's amazing what you can do with a small piece of brass. Learn how to make brass parts from scrap, wire, tubing and brass and metal specialty materials.

DRAWING 3.

Building mast and spars

There are a number of products to build mast and spars from: good hard woods, brass and metal rod and tubing, and plastic rod and tubing. As many resin ships lack these parts, or the parts are made of resin or white metal of varying quality, you may want to consider or be required to scratch build these parts. Masts are delicate and generally will require assembly on a plan or templet of the same dimensions as the finished piece. They will in most cases also need to be counter sunk into the deck of the ship for support and strength, especially if stress is placed on the part in rigging. Support will also be required on the spars on the mast. Because of this you need to place nicks, grooves or holes in the mast and spars for added strength at glue points. (see DRAWING 4.) Some parts may require pining to support and maintain a good bond. You will also need to continually check the square of the parts to insure they are aligned as required.

Rigging Ships

One of the last things you will do with your ship is rig it. Rigging is one thing that will set your model off from just another kit as it is an area where you can really show off your modeling ability and add a whole other dimension to the model. Rigging brings a ship model to life. Rigging is fragile and tends to collect dust. Thus the model should be handled as little as possible after rigging.

Products to use for rigging

Today there is a wide selection of synthetic products available for rigging ship models, from fine surgical wire to micro thin monofilament threads. Sources for monofilament threads are fabric stores for invisible thread and monofilament lines, and sporting good stores for fishing and fly tying. These products are available in numerous sizes for use as different size wires and cables on a ship. Wires should be used for lines requiring rigidity and some strength, where threads can be used for loose lines. Monofilament threads can be tightened by applying heat after they are strung. You must be careful, as sometimes they will pop out or off the glue point or actually bend the stays they are attached to. (Leaving a rigged model in a car on a hot day can be a disaster). A dark color filament should be used and the gloss shine can be reduced by a coat of flat paint, rigging can be painted if need be. Filament threads used in rigging can be glued together with super glue and white glue. Wire generally must be glued with super glue. Use of an accelerator when glueing rigging is essential. Tying rigging will work on larger scale ships but most rigging will need to be glued on smaller scale models. A pin drill is a must for drilling holes to insert and glue rigging in. As previously mentioned, prior planning is also essential in rigging. Many holes and attachment points for rigging must be prepared as the model is assembled. Additionally, most kit instructions do not show how the ship was rigged and additional plans and research will be required.

Often when building resin kits you may have to scratch build a new or replacement part. Here are some methods for making new parts. A damaged deck house or level can be cut from wood then laminated plastic sides can be glued to the piece adding port holes or doors from commercially sold part sheets in various scales. (see DRAWING 5.) More complex shapes can be carved from blocks of resin or wood by several methods. The first method is to draw a template, glue it to the block to be carved, then carve the part from the block. (see DRAWING 6.)Another method is to cut partially formed layers from plastic, wood or resin and build up the general shape of the object. After the general shape is achieved you then carve and sand the shape down to the finished part. (see DRAWING 7.)

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DRAWING 6.

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DRAWING 7.

Small round parts such as mast, vent caps and gun barrels can be made from wood, plastic or brass rod and tubing placed in a electric hand drill and then sanded and turned down to the appropriate shape. Filler putties and super glue can be used to fill and form tappers into parts. One thing you need to know is that if you use super glue to make a part you are planning on casting later you will need to give it time to outgas prior to casting the part. Usually about 48 hours.

Casting parts

Casting parts is another way to make new parts or replace damaged parts. This will be covered in the next "technique" article, to be published in the April 2000 issue of navismagazine.com.

Finishing and showing your model

This is a critical time in the building of a ship model. Even a small 1/700 scale ship fully rigged and finished deserves a good case. Putting your finished model in a case protects it from dust, damage and the elements and you can look at it years later and it will look as good as when you finished it. Showing a finished ship, even if you don't think it's up to what other people do, is a pleasure to you and the people that view it. Another ship modeler will look at it learn from it and appreciate your work and effort. If he or she doesn't, it's their loss and not yours.

One last thought always try to enjoy modeling don't get hung up on winning prizes at competitions, but do go to them, and do show your work, that's where you will meet other modelers and learn.

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